The Substance is a difficult film for me to rate. The first three quarters or so are amazing in every way, from fantastic performances, beautifully composed shots, great directing, and effective horror elements that support a compelling concept. The last act of the movie, however, is a complete mess in my opinion.
The plot follows Demi Moore as Elisabeth Sparkle, a fading star who is fired from her workout show after reaching her 50s, an age when--according to sleazy Hollywood executives--women are no longer seen as beautiful or worthy. Despite being an attractive, mature woman with good qualities, Elisabeth, like many women, is made to feel like she isn't good enough because she isn't a young adult anymore. Desperate to be viewed as lovable and desirable again, Elisabeth accepts an offer of a mysterious back alley drug that promises to use her DNA to create a younger, "better" version of herself.
The theme of unrealistic, toxic beauty standards is the foundation of The Substance, influencing Elisabeth, and eventually Sue's, every move. As a young woman, I appreciated the honest, sad, and ultimately catastrophic way this topic was explored, utilizing sci-fi and body horror to illustrate not only how unattainable western beauty standards are for women, but how detrimental they can be both to physical and mental health. The substance itself is a good metaphor for extreme beauty treatments and plastic surgery, along with how people are blind to their own beauty due to societal conditioning, making them willing to sacrifice their genuine selves to become as close to the Barbie doll American ideal as possible.
As an avid horror fan, I can confidently say that the body horror in this movie is not only convincingly disgusting but shocking. At first, this aspect is slowly built upon and becomes increasingly more disturbing, however, it's so over the top by the end that it's laughable. I understand that the filmmakers likely intended for the last few scenes to be ridiculous, showcasing how unrealistic and absurd beauty standards are, but it wasn't well executed in my opinion. "Elisasue" is a caricature, a cartoonish monster who vomits up a breast and has Demi Moore's face stuck to her back. I was honestly speechless watching it because it was so goofy.
One can argue that everything in The Substance is cartoonish to a degree - a clear satire of the entertainment industry, how predominantly white male Hollywood executives behave, and the life of a celebrity. This argument is true, and it's effective for most of the film, but the ending took it so far that it felt more like a low budget 80s horror flick that's so bad it's funny. The very last scene of Elisabeth's face in a pile of gore atop her star on the Walk of Fame was even stranger and more ridiculous than the previous scene, cementing how off the rails the last act was.
Overall, The Substance is a movie with a unique, creative plot, incredible acting from both Demi Moore and Margaret Qualley, effectively disturbing body horror, and well executed themes of damaging body standards, self worth, and the toxicity of the male gaze. However, the ending becomes a parody of itself, which may have been intentional but just didn't work for me. I can understand why some people loved the ending, but it was so silly that personally, I felt like it undermined the message of the entire movie and took my rating from 5 stars to 3 1/2, rounded up to 4.