Ervin Robeson

Two much like a "High Energy" stage act, chill a little. You are should be more like the friendly neighbor, that is a mechanic. Need to remind viewers that the drive train should have quality fluid changes. The book may say 100k, but this is the recommendation from the folks who SELL vehicles. These are like building codes, the minimum you should/must do. This is brought to you by the people that say 7500 mile oil changes. Lube is cheap by comparison, you decide for yourself. Body preservation: Clean/flush/treat/coat: bottom rear of front fender and remove liner if possible, rear too rocker drains, all the way to the rear cab corner. door drains and the bottom from the inside, repair/replace vapor barrier. If you cut in a speaker add plastic to seal the speaker's rear to the existing vapor barrier. Replace the inner and outer seals at the bottom of your roll up window. It will help prevent scratches in the window or inside tint AND keep the inside of your door drier! These things are simple and cheap to preserve your vehicle. Then those vent shades and new trim look better on that baby. The stuff you should do that nobody sees, except your body shop! I am not a mechanic, but grew up around a dealership. My son and I have done a couple for ourselves and have two going now. We have been lucky and have not stretched to the, "Point of No Return" on anything yet. We like early to mid 70's era. The points I made are from experience, much cheaper to maintain the unseen metal, than to repair/replace it. The replacement parts quality is a "Hit and Miss" problem. We have thrown away new, not cheap, c10 bed sides. You would have never gotten them right, all of the spot welds were out of alignment, ALL of THEM! What a twisted mess that looked like and the suppliers will not do anything, you signed for it and that is it. Repair a panel if possible, don't think I'll just buy a new one is the perfect answer. Chill a little and don't come off as the "Snake Oil Salesman" or your last job was at a Carnival.