Congratulations William Finnegan! You changed me forever. I live in Costa Mesa, minutes away from several beach cities. And all this time I thought that the unbathed, ratty-haired surfers who smell like weed and bum gas money from everyone were ne'er-do-wells at worst, and at best, simpletons and freeloaders (though admittedly really fun to talk to).
You taught me that I've been wrong this whole time Mr. Finnegan. You showed me that these surfers are all actually scholar-vagrants, aspiring Pulitzer Prize-winning autobiographers, and future titans of industry who are only putting on a front that they are wasting their lives away. At night, huddled in their Vanagons, they are all devouring the great books, The New Yorker, Chaucer, and furiously writing draft after draft of op-eds that they submit anonymously to the Washington Post. Just like you did while you were younger.
I can't believe I didn't see these surfers before for who they really are. Thank you for opening my eyes. This was the best book I read this year and I highly recommend it.